I’ve been printing a lot of these GoPro Hero3 mounts on my printer. I can just barely fit 2 on the table, and for a good print the placement is somewhat critical. Although the Afinia software gives plenty of flexibility with rotating and sliding things around, it is a bit cumbersome. You would think you could place a few objects on the table and then save it. Unfortunately the saved file will only save one object.
I’ve found its easier to make your OpenSCAD drawings into modules so they can easily be imported into an array for printing.
Here is a quick example of a 2-up array of the Hero3 frame mount.
The last entry on the ShapeOko was a bit bleak. The 0.2mm cuts out of copper clad PCB gave unusable results due to the Y-Axis skew under load. There were a couple different upgrade options that interested me. One extended the Y-Axis motor shaft to the other side of the table, and the other added a second motor. I already had a motor on hand, so I went that route. It was another $30 in parts to complete the mod. It went together easily, being basically a mirror image of the other side. Electrically, I wired the two Y-Axis motors in parallel, taking care to invert a phase on one of the two motors. Here is a photo of the upgraded rig.
Dual Motor Y-Axis ShapeOko
Its not that bad, but my next issue is leveling the floor. The more level I can get it, the better trace/space I’ll be able to cut with the V-tipped end mill I’m using. Next time you see my ShapeOko, it will be cutting something that is hopefully more interesting.
Yawn, another GoPro camera mount. I wouldn’t post another one of these gems if I didn’t think it was useful. I like to move my Hero3 between several different mounts In an effort to make at least one of those swap outs super quick, I created the Quick Mount. The camera slides in snug from the top, and is easily removed by pushing it out from the bottom cutaway.
Last weekend was my sons 2nd birthday, so I didn’t spend any time on the ShapeOko. Instead I played with plastic trucks and matchbox cars. It wasn’t until today that I actually routed some copper clad boards. “How did it go” you say? I’m glad you asked. Disappointingly, not so well. Here is what I’ve done.
I started by downloading the gcode_02.ulp script written by Josef Plasil. I pulled it from the Eagle website. There is no documentation on this ULP that I could find, but it is straight forward and doesn’t have a lot of options. It appears to do a great job.
With my new ULP in hand (or on disk), I did a quick test layout. Very quick. The layout had no components, just the word “TEST” written in the center. I ran the ULP eager to do some cutting!
Video after the break..
ShapeOko.. I’ve heard Oko means “eye” in Serbian, so I was curious of the origins of the name. Is it something that helps to visualize shapes? Nope, I googled it and as it turns out, its just an homage to Shapeways and Ponoko. Oh well, I thought I might be on to something..
Anyway. I built one of these recently, and it looks awesome.. I haven’t done much with it yet, but I thought it would be interesting to drill and route a few PCB’s with it. I’ll let you know how that works out for me. A few people out on the Interwebs are attempting a home grown pick and place machine using the Shapeoko. I’ll be keeping an eye on that effort. Maybe I’ll take a stab at it myself.
So here is my setup.
Completed ShapeOko Build
Although the Shapeoko kit runs $220, here is what the whole shebang set me back.
A pillow block, or linear shaft support block, is used for mounting a guide shaft on a linear table. I originally created this as a mount for a Proxxon rotary tool on my Shapeoko. As I got further into building the Shapeoko, I found that it wasn’t the best mount for the job. However, these are very popular so I thought I’d post in just in case someone else stumbles in here that could use it.
3D Printable Pillow Block
The dimensions were modeled after the SK20 pillow block found mostly on Alibaba or Ebay for around $6. They come in aluminum, and at that price are probably not worth the print for most. But with standard overseas shipping taking several weeks in some cases, this will get you going much faster.
I mentioned in a previous post how Android makes it easy to stream from an RTSP source. There was a small amount of interest in exactly how this was accomplished, so here is a quick and dirty example.
Android RTSP Client
Read on for a quick walk-through of the code.
Last weeks great idea turned out to be kind of a flop. While the Sharpie Spin Top didn’t make it onto WeeklyBuild, I did post it on Thingiverse if anyone is interested. The top had no troubles spinning, but it didn’t ‘walk’ around the paper like I had hoped.
On the other hand, it spawned off another idea. I had planned to use my GoPro camera to film the top doodling on some paper, but didn’t have a good way to mount the camera to my tripod. I didn’t think these were available (yes, they are..) so I decided to create my own.
3D Printed Hero3 Tripod Adapter
The photo above shows the completed tripod adapter connected to the GoPro waterproof enclosure. The remainder of this article shows the build process.
*Update* Many have asked if I would sell these. They are now available on ThingyLab for 5 bucks.
Last December I finally jumped on the 3D printing bandwagon. After reading reviews on over a dozen hobby grade 3D printers, I decided on the Afinia. The Afinia printer ranked well in Make magazines 3D printer buying guide and was awarded best overall experience.
After printing quite a few trinkets I’ve found on Thingiverse, I had an idea of something I wanted to create on my own. I thought I’d post this creation here on WB, and include a time lapse video of the print.
While pondering the time lapse feature on my GoPro camera, I decided to search for GoPro on Thingiverse. I can’t say I was surprised, but I received quite a few hits. The one that really caught my eye was a frame mount design created by [raster]. This was great, I had plans to purchase the frame mount for $40, but now I have one and it cost me next to nothing. The only problem was that it didn’t hold my Hero3 as snuggly as I’d like. It didn’t take much for the camera to slide out of the front or back when tilted. I could have thrown some tape on the inside and been done with it, or I could tweak the design a bit. I decided it was an easy fix, so I set out to make some changes. For now, my original creation would be on hold.
3D Printable GoPro Hero3 Mount
Recently, we have been using an IP camera as a baby monitor to watch our 18 month old in his crib. It ran for several months without issue but then, without warning, the WIFI just stopped working. The camera provided an RTSP stream that we had become accustomed to logging into via our Android phones.
Armed with an old PC, a webcam, and a few open source software packages I decided to piece together a quick fix. We have since replaced the IP camera, due to the less than desirable form factor and power consumption of a full blown PC. However, theres no reason the PC could not have been replaced with a BeagleBoard, BeagleBone, Raspberry Pi, etc..
What is RTSP?
Multiparty Multimedia Session Control Working Group (MMUSIC WG) of the Internet Engineering Task Force (IETF)
developed Real Time Streaming Protocol (RTSP) as a means to control streaming servers.
The RTSP protocol is similar to HTTP, but is tailored to better suit multimedia streams.
Read the deets on RTSP @ http://www.ietf.org/rfc/rfc2326.txt
GStreamer, a multimedia swiss army knife, enables you to easily do various processing on a video or audio stream. In GStreamer this processing is structured as a ‘pipeline’ of elements. Elements can be sources which provide an output, sinks that consume a stream, or both source and sink. You can easily test these pipelines on the command line before wrapping the working pipeline into your own application. This is the library I used for our interim baby monitor. The GStreamer library can be used with many languages. I chose to work in C just because of familiarity.